1987 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60

The original 2F inline-six was starting to burn a quart every 800 miles and had a persistent rear-main leak. We pulled it and had it rebuilt by Sierra Gear & Supply in Reno (Mark Decker, 775-555-0134). Bored .020 over, new pistons, reground crank, ported head. It has about 16,000 miles on it now and uses no oil between 3,000-mile changes. Compression test in May 2024 showed 145–148 psi across all six — Mark said that's as good as these engines get.

The H42 transmission has never been opened. Clutch pedal is firm and grabs high — that's normal for these. The throwout bearing chatters for about three seconds on cold mornings below 40°F; it has done that since we bought it in 2018. If it gets worse, replace the bearing, the fork, and the pilot bushing as a set. Part number is Toyota 31230-60030.

Mounted on original 15×7 steelies with 3.5" backspacing. Spare is the same tire, rotated in annually. Tires have about 40% tread left and are starting to check on the sidewalls from desert sun — plan to replace before the next long trip. Torque the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb. The spare tire carrier bolt is 19mm and tends to seize; soak it in PB Blaster the night before you need it.

Radiator, water pump, thermostat, all hoses, and the mechanical fan clutch. The old radiator had pinhole leaks in the top tank — common at this age. We went with an OEM-style copper-brass radiator from Champion rather than aluminum; it cools better in slow-speed crawling. Keep the coolant at 50/50 green ethylene glycol. Flush it every two years regardless of mileage — these engines run hot and the water jackets are narrow.

Front and rear drum brakes, original style. We had them turned and installed new shoes, wheel cylinders, and springs in 2023. The parking brake works but needs a hard pull — that's the adjuster under the rear seat. Adjust it through the hole in the backing plate with a flathead screwdriver while rotating the wheel. The brake fluid is DOT 3; flush it every two years. If the pedal ever feels spongy, check the rear wheel cylinders first — they weep slowly and the fluid collects in the drums.

The birfield joints in the front axle need grease and inspection every 30,000 miles or after any deep water crossing. We're at 214k now, so it's due soon. You'll need a 54mm socket for the hub nuts and a slide hammer — it's a half-day job if you've done it before. The knuckle rebuild kit is Marlin Crawler part number MCM-KNKLE. Also change the front and rear differential oil at the same time; use 80W-90 GL-5.

The heater valve cable has a dead spot between 'closed' and 'open.' There is no lukewarm. In practice, you drive with the windows cracked until March. We looked into replacing the cable but the part is NLA (no longer available) and the aftermarket ones bind worse. It's livable.

The carbureted 2F will stall if you touch the throttle before the choke has fully opened. The dash light is not reliable — listen for the idle to drop from 1,400 rpm to 900. In winter, give it two minutes. If you need to leave in a hurry, hold the throttle at 1,200 rpm for the first mile. It's not elegant but it works.

The driver's side handle linkage snapped somewhere in the 1990s and the previous owner never fixed it. You get used to walking around. A replacement linkage assembly is available from SOR (Specter Off-Road) for about $40 if you want to restore full function. The tailgate itself is straight and the seal is good — no leaks.

Not a quirk, but easy to forget. One key does everything: ignition, both doors, the glove box, and the locking gas cap. If you ever need a replacement, the key code is stamped on the face of the passenger door lock cylinder — you can read it with a flashlight without removing anything.

The KO2s ride better and grip noticeably better at 18 psi. We carry a Viair 88P compressor (plugs into the lighter socket) and it takes about four minutes per tire to get back to 32 psi. The lighter socket is on the dash, left of the steering column. Bring a tire pressure gauge you trust — the cheap ones drift.

The winch is mounted on a custom bumper built by the second owner. It's been reliable but the solenoid pack gets moisture in it after pressure washing — let it dry before testing. Always use a tree strap and a line damper. The controller plugs into the solenoid box on the bumper; the socket cap is missing, so we keep a zip bag over it.

We did it in 2022 with three other rigs. Olive made it, but the long wheelbase and low breakover angle meant we dragged the transfer case skid on every other rock. The skid plate is 3/16" steel and it now has a respectable patina. It's fine for fire roads, mild jeep trails, and snow. It's not a crawler. Know that going in and you'll love it.

Delivered new in March 1987 at Downey Toyota in Southern California to a rancher in Bakersfield. He kept it until 2004, logging mostly highway and dirt-road miles. Second owner was a firefighter in Flagstaff who added the winch bumper and upgraded the suspension. We bought it from him in 2018 with 176,000 miles. Every oil change, every repair, and every tank of gas is recorded in the logbook in the glove box.

The color is Toyota 6G4 Olive Green. The hood and the top of the driver's door were resprayed in 2015 after sun fade; the match is close but not perfect in direct sunlight. The rest is original single-stage enamel and it polishes beautifully. We use Meguiar's M105/M205 once a year and Collinite 845 after. The roof rack is OEM and was added by the first owner.